Excavation of a Civil War hide-out cave in Sligo

Media release

In an exciting new project, a Sligo-based team have completed the excavation of a cave used during the Civil War as an anti-Treaty IRA hideout. The project, funded by Atlantic Technological University (ATU Sligo), will reveal a forgotten story in Sligo’s recent history, in what is the first archaeological research excavation of a Civil War site in Ireland.

The team of three archaeologists – Dr Marion Dowd (ATU Sligo), Robert Mulraney (Independent Researcher) and Dr James Bonsall (Fourth Dimension Prospection Ltd.) – spent over a week excavating a small cave on private property high in the Dartry Mountains overlooking Glencar Lake in north County Sligo.

The cave was used as a hideout during the War of Independence and was the principal hideout of the North Sligo anti-Treaty IRA during the Civil War.

In September 1922, the National Army closed in on the anti-treaty IRA headquarters at Rahelly House north of Sligo town. After an intense firefight, approximately 60 men evacuated the house, making for Benbulben, with the intention of crossing the mountains to reach the safety of Tormore Cave – better known as the ‘Glencar hideout’. Several IRA men were captured on the mountains and imprisoned by the National Army.

Six men were shot and killed at two different locations in the uplands. These men – Brigadier Seamus Devins, Divisional Adjutant Brian MacNeill, Lieutenant Patrick Carroll, Volunteer Joseph Banks, Captain Harry Benson and Volunteer Thomas Langan – became known as Sligo’s Noble Six.

Tormore Cave, hidden in the landscape. Credit: James Bonsall

A further 34 men successfully reached Tormore Cave and lived there for the following six weeks. The men were never discovered, making this one of the most successful hideouts of the entire revolutionary period in Ireland.

Following the Civil War, the location of Tormore Cave was lost. In the mid 1930s, however, General Officer Commanding William Pilkington, one of the men who had hid there in 1922, returned to Sligo and revealed its location. During his time in the cave, he had nursed an injury to his shoulder which had he broken during recent fighting. Anecdotal accounts recollect that while in the cave, Pilkington vowed to become a priest if he survived the war. This he did, and went on to be ordained as a Redemptorist priest serving in Cape Town, South Africa and England.

Archaeological excavations

The archaeological excavations sought to document the hideout and learn more about how it was utilised as part of guerrilla tactics. The excavations revealed that the cave had been modified and prepared for usage, probably during the War of Independence.

A large boulder was strategically placed at the entrance. On either side of this, stones were piled against the cave walls and fixed with mortar. This served to conceal the cave entrance making the hideout extremely difficult to find. It is likely that a sentry was positioned inside the cave behind the boulder, from where he commanded expansive views over the surrounding landscape.

Excavating the cave. Credit: R. Mulraney

Inside, excavations through soil layers revealed a series of constructed steps leading from the entrance into the cave. With further excavation it was found that the men had also prepared a mortar-surfaced floor, layered over with flagstones, in a similar way to traditional Irish cottages of the 1920s. A mortared wall was also built to enclose the space. This construction would have served to keep the living space clean and created a warmer and drier surface for men sleeping there. But it was far from luxurious: The 34 men endured harsh conditions in the cave. They could not light fires as the smoke would attract attention. They had to survive with little food, cramped into a small, damp and dark cave for many weeks.

Artefacts discovered

The excavations produced almost 200 artefacts. ‘This is the first archaeological excavation of a Civil War site in Ireland’, Dr Marion Dowd of Atlantic Technological University commented. ‘Many people knew that a mountain cave had been used as a hideout for six weeks, but almost no one knew where it was located. Because so few people have visited the cave over the past 100 years, the site was essentially a Civil War time capsule. The structures and artefacts we discovered were as they had been left when the men abandoned the cave in October 1922’.

Sherds of pottery and glass were recovered that related to food brought by local families to feed the men. ‘Much of the pottery probably came from Sarah Branley’s kitchen’, Dr James Bonsall explained. ‘The Branleys lived a short walk from the cave and two of Sarah’s sons, Paddy and Dominick, were hiding in the cave. One of the main problems the men encountered was Trenchfoot, caused by prolonged exposure in damp conditions. Apparently Sarah tended to the men’s feet on at least one occasion when some of them left the cave during a bad storm and came to her house.’


Surveying the cave. Credit: R. Mulraney

‘We also found several personal items that give us an insight into the men’ said caver and archaeologist Robert Mulraney. ‘We found a boot lace, a belt buckle and a clay pipe. As part of the project, we are trying to identify the men who sought refuge in the cave, who survived the ordeal and who then became largely forgotten. So far we have identified seven men and have been speaking with their relatives’.

The team hope that people who had relatives that stayed in the cave will contact them. ‘This is not just a Sligo story. We have had contact from people in Boston (USA), London, and Counties Galway, Down and Dublin whose father, grandfather, uncle or granduncle stayed in the cave during the Civil War. We hope to hear from others’ said Dr Dowd. If you have any information about the cave, the team can be contacted at:

Dr Marion Dowd (dowd.marion@itsligo.ie) (087 6632422)

Robert Mulraney (robertmulraney@gmail.com) (085 8384980)

Excavation team Dr Marion Dowd, Robert Mulraney, Dr James Bonsall. Credit John Cassella.

Interview Podcast and my first cave trip since lock-down!

I am delighted to release a link for a podcast interview I did last week for Irish Photography Podcast, Ireland’s leading photography channel. I was interviewed by hosts Darren J. Spoonley and Diarmuid O’ Donovan, both top photographers, and it went live shortly after. If you would like to hear it, follow the link below and also follow IPP as it features many fine photography interviews and discussions. It is available at:

https://theirishphotographypodcast.podbean.com/e/special-guest-robert-mulraney-deep-into-irish-caves/

Also, I had my first cave trip since lock-down recently. I visited one of my favourites caves Pollskeheenarinky Cave in Tipperary. I have added a couple of new photos and updated the text. Hope you enjoy!

Re-launch of Caves of Ireland website!

I am pleased to present a newly reworked and improved version on my website Caves of Ireland! The site, which initially started as a personal blog in 2014, quickly developed and, despite a period of recent silence, continues to attract large numbers. With over fifty thousand views and almost twenty thousand visitors, and a growing photographic archive, I have decided it’s time to re-lauch it.

Many hours of work have gone into making this possible. Every single photo, of which there are about 300, was re-stamped, resized and very many were re-edited. All of the text has been revised, and many old items removed and new ones added. New entries are being worked on at present.

The most immediate change that will be noticed is the overall appearance of the site. For this I am extremely grateful to Becks Kelly who, in large, redesigned the entire site. Her work has given it a neat consistency, a greater ease-of-read and a really smart look.

Oweynagat: The Cave of Cats, Roscommon

These photos are from a trip to Oweynagat Cave in County Roscommon last summer. It is somewhat a different theme from usual as this cave is of much archaeological and folkloric significance. I hope you enjoy!

Click here to go to the page

A Swim in Arch Cave, Co. Fermanagh.

I have added a new page of photos from a trip to Arch Cave in County Fermanagh.

Follow the link here to see the article

Beginnings…

I have always enjoyed taking photos and continue to take my camera with me most places I go. When I started caving it seemed natural to take my camera into caves as well, where I soon found it difficult to get decent photos. My first shots were on a manual compact camera using it’s built-in flash and displayed the typical cave photo scenario ‐ lots of black spaces, bad focus and, most frustratingly, air moisture filling the entire frame. A good example of one of my very first cave photos follows, and this is of the ones I chose not to delete!:

Pollnagollum (Of The Boats), November 2012. Taken on Canon Powershot with inbuilt flash.

I have made improvements by taking more lighting equipment underground, using a DSLR camera and transporting it all in waterproof boxes. Nearly all the gear I use for cave photography is second hand and bought cheap. Taking better cave photos does require familiarisation with certain technical aspects associated with flash photography, but for the most part it is relatively straight forward and the biggest difficulties are met in lugging gear around underground and cleaning it all after the trip!

Pollnagollum (Of The Boats), June 2014. Taken on Canon 450D with one flashbulb and one off‐camera electronic flash.

More photos from Pollnagollum (Of the Boats) can be seen here.